Efficient, Affordable, and Scalable 3D Printer Farm Enclosure Setup
Our goal from the start of our 3D printing endeavors was to establish a print farm. Initially, we experimented in various areas and niches with our first printer, unsure of what we would produce on a large scale. We slowly found our niche and quickly outgrew one printer, and within a few months, we needed a third. Today, we’re approaching the need for a fourth.
However, we didn’t anticipate how much space our 3D printing operations would require. Our master bedroom had already been converted into an office, and soon we began to outgrow that space too. Investing in an office space isn’t feasible for us yet, so we had to make do with what we had. After extensive research and planning, we found a setup that worked for our home, and we hope it will work for yours too.
With the help of the Prusa community, we built a modular 3D printer farm that optimally utilizes our space. We combined components from multiple creators on Prusa’s Printables website—an open-source gallery of user-designed 3D printable files—with low-cost IKEA furniture, repurposed materials, and tools we had on hand.
Most of the models we referenced kept their spools outside the enclosure, routing them through the top, and used the bottom table for storage. We decided to keep the spools inside the enclosure and use both levels for printers. To achieve this, we added 8 inches of height to the enclosure with printable or wooden legs. These can be secured using printed brackets and/or double ended wood screws. This setup accommodates the additional clearance we needed for the foam and tile used for weight and dampening movement. We also found that the tower moves less when weight is at the top, so we use the top space for storage instead of the bottom. To make this model scalable, we added mounting brackets for use between the enclosure towers. We recommend using these “Lackets” to keep the whole enclosure secure to the wall.
One of the key necessities for our printer farm was scalability, allowing us to accommodate more printers without requiring extra floor space. As your printing needs grow, our modular design allows for easy expansion, both vertically and horizontally, by adding new levels to existing towers or new towers altogether. The use of stability and mounting brackets ensures that each new level remains secure and stable. Whether you’re starting with just a few printers or planning to expand to a larger operation, this setup can adapt to the needs of any 3D printing enthusiast or business.
The wood, foam, acrylic, and tile were repurposed scraps from other projects. If you have access to similar materials, we recommend using them, or repurposing and using what you already have on hand. Remember the principles of reduce, reuse, and recycle as you optimize your own 3D printing setup.
For our tower design you will need:
To Buy & Make:
x2 IKEA LACK Tables (21 5/8” x 21 5/8")
x1 21 5/8” x 21 5/8" piece of plywood
x2 18” x 18” piece of foam or insulation board
x2 18” x 18” x .5” tile (a paver works as well)
x8 8” x 2” x 2” wood legs (optional, to keep spools inside the enclosure)
or print 2 sets of four Lack_enclosure_8in-leg-extensions.stl
Acrylic board, measurements differ depending on technique used
To Print (2 sets of each, 1 per table):
Lack_enclosure_bottom-corners.stl
Lack_enclosure_top-corners.stl
Lack_enclosure_handles-magnets.stl
Lack_enclosure_leg-brackets.stl (you only need one set of these)
Lack_enclosure_stability-brackets.stl
Lacket Wall Anchor (print after you’ve made your enclosure)
Tools & Hardware:
Screw driver
Power Drill
Drill Bits
x40 Small Wood Screws (ex. #6 x 1/2in)
+ 16 Small Wood Screws if using the Lack_enclosure_8in-leg-extensions
x16 Double Ended Wood Screws
Not needed for Lack_enclosure_8in-leg-extensions
x4 Large Wood Screws (ex. #12 x 2in)
x4 Drywall Mounts and Screws
x8 Medium Wood Screws
Gather and print your supplies, it’s time to build!
Unpack the IKEA Skadis Table:
You should have four legs, a tabletop, and four double-ended screws.
Prepare the Legs:
Take eight Small Wood Screws and attach the Lack_enclosure_top-corners to one end of each Lack leg.
Drill the IKEA-included Double-Ended Screws through the Lack_enclosure_top-corners and into each Lack leg.
Align the Legs with the Tabletop:
With the tabletop upside down, align where each Lack leg will go. Pay attention to which sides of the Lack_enclosure_top-corners have the pivoting joint and which don’t. The face of the Lack_enclosure_top-corners screwed into the leg in Step 2 should be on the inside of the table.
Note that two of the Lack_enclosure_top-corners have holes for wiring, which should be positioned at the back of the table.
Attach the Lack Legs to the Table:
Manually twist each Lack leg into the bottom of the table. As the leg gets closer to the table, attach the pivoting joint piece to each Lack_enclosure_top-corner piece. Ensure everything is facing the correct direction on your final turn. Screw all four Lack legs into the table this way.
Drill Pilot Holes:
Using the domed piece of the Lack_enclosure_bottom-corner as a guide, use your drill and an appropriately sized drill bit to make a pilot hole into both sides of the wood legs. If you are using the Lack_enclosure_8in-leg-extensions, you can skip this step.
Extend the Legs:
Screw one Double-Ended Wood Screw into each leg, then manually twist the wooden leg into the Lack leg already connected to the table.
If you are using the Lack_enclosure_8in-leg-extensions, place the hollow side of the leg onto the Lack leg already connected to the table and screw in two Small Wood Screws.
Create Counter Sinks:
Using the domed piece of the Lack_enclosure_bottom-corner as a guide, drill a countersink in the bottom of the 21 5/8” x 21 5/8" plywood for the heads of the Large Wood Screws. Then, use a smaller drill bit to create pilot holes through the plywood.
Stack and Align the Bottom Corners:
Stack and align the Lack_enclosure_bottom-corners on each leg, considering the wiring holes and pivoting joints placements. Use four Large Wood Screws to secure through the plywood, Lack_enclosure_bottom-corner pieces, and into the wooden or printed 8” leg. Ensure pivoting joint pieces are in place before securing everything together.
Complete Table 1:
Table 1, or the bottom half of the enclosure, is now complete.
Repeat for Table 2:
Repeat Steps 1-5 for the top half (Table 2) of the enclosure. Then, repeat Step 6 but only drill a pilot hole on one end of each of the four wooden or printed 8” legs.
Secure the Top Legs:
Screw the remaining four Double-Ended Wood Screws into the pilot hole of each wooden or plastic 8” leg.
Attach Legs to Table 1:
Flip over Table 1 so it is right-side up and the plywood is on the floor. Align the Prusa_enclosure_bottom-corners on top of the table, considering the wiring holes and pivoting joints. Manually screw the wooden or plastic 8” leg through the bottom corner pieces and into the top of Table 1. Attach the pivoting joint piece to each bottom corner as the leg gets closer to the table.
Secure Table 2 on Top:
Align the legs of Table 2 on top of the wooden or plastic 8” legs secured to Table 1. Use four Lack_enclosure_leg-brackets and 16 Small Wood Screws to secure the Lack leg to the 8” wood or plastic leg. For additional stability, you can add another Lack_enclosure_leg-bracket on the inside of the enclosure. If you want visual symmetry or more security, attach four more Lack_enclosure_leg-brackets on the bottom legs as well.
Optional Additional Rows:
To make the enclosure taller, follow Steps 11-13 for additional rows.
Add Insulation and Tile:
Place one foam piece or insulation board inside each enclosure. Then place your tile or paver on top of the foam. This provides both stability and dampening.
Measure and Cut Acrylic Panels:
Measure and cut acrylic to size. You’ll need four larger panels for each side and four smaller panels for the front door. We chose not to enclose the back to allow airflow. Even with only three sides covered, there was no smell when using materials like ASA.
Attach Door Knobs:
Attach the Lack_enclosure_handles-magnets to the bottom and top corners of each door. Use hot glue if needed. Once attached, close the doors and align the piece with screw holes on the inside of the enclosure where the doors will close on the top and bottom. Secure with two Small Wood Screws per piece.
Final Stabilization:
Secure two Lack_enclosure_leg-brackets with two Medium Wood Screws each between the towers to hold them together. We placed one close to the top of each table. This will help prevent swaying and stabilize your enclosure. If you feel the need, you can add two more on the back of your enclosure.
Position and Secure the Enclosure:
Slide the enclosure to your desired location. Inside the back of the enclosure, attach your Lacket Wall Anchors to the wall using drywall mounts and screws. Use four Medium Wood Screws to secure the Lacket wall anchors to your enclosure. Measure the distance from the wall before printing the Lacket Wall Anchors. Securing your enclosure to the wall helps with stability and side-to-side swaying, but it is optional.
Set Up Your Printers:
You’re all done! Place your printers inside the enclosure, wire them up, and you’re ready to print.
FAQ
Q: My enclosure is shaking a lot. What do I do?
A: . Swaying is normal and generally should not affect your printers drastically. If your enclosure shaking is concerning, it may need additional stabilization. Ensure that all connections are secure and tight. Use stability brackets between the towers and consider anchoring the enclosure to the wall using Lacket Wall Anchors. To mitigate shaking, you can place something heavy at the top of the enclosure. For instance, we store a 12lb battery backup on top of the enclosure.
Q: Why do you put a tile in the enclosure?
A: The tile adds weight to the bottom of the enclosure, helping to stabilize the structure and reduce vibrations. It also provides a sturdy, flat surface for the printers to operate on, which improves print quality by minimizing movement.
Q: Why do you put foam in the enclosure?
A: Foam or insulation board is used to dampen vibrations and noise. It provides a cushioned layer between the printers and the tile, further reducing the transfer of vibrations and maintaining a quieter operating environment.
Q: How are you dealing with toxic and harmful fumes?
A: We chose not to enclose the back of the setup to allow for better airflow and ventilation,primarily for the sake of the printer’s electrical components. Even with only three sides covered, we have not experienced any issues with ASA fumes. However, if you are concerned about fumes, consider adding an exhaust fan or air purifier to help ventilate the area and ensure proper air circulation. We use the IKEA FÖRNUFTIG / VINDRIKTNING air purifier. It is crucial to ensure proper ventilation and consider using an air purifier or exhaust fan when printing with these materials:
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene): Like ASA, ABS emits fumes that contain styrene, which can be harmful if inhaled over long periods.
PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride): PVC can release hydrochloric acid and other toxic fumes, making it unsuitable for 3D printing without proper ventilation.
HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene): While often used as a support material, HIPS can emit styrene fumes similar to ABS.
Nylon: Nylon filaments can release caprolactam fumes, which can cause respiratory irritation.
Polycarbonate: This filament can produce fumes that are irritating and potentially harmful if inhaled.
PP (Polypropylene): Can emit fumes that may cause respiratory irritation.
